chispa bistró en la prensa

La Razón, by Andrés Sánchez Magro.

The Madrid of the good life is plural. It has the same capacity for coexistence of culinary identities as everything that bears the mark of an open city. In the frenzy of openings, what is truly interesting is having your own voice. Juan D'Onofrio at his Chispa Bistró He has orchestrated a kitchen where he can perform scores that flow with the ease of the creator.

Faced with the gastronomic customs, which many diners seem to look at after the excesses of molecular gastronomies and uncontrolled fusions, this Argentine, raised as a cat, abstracts himself from any story and cooks freely. Everything works for him, and it doesn't seem like he understands borders or other notable cuisine, whether oriental or Spanish regional recipe books. In this charming house in front of the Plaza del Rey, It is advisable to surrender your appetites and emotions to the suggestions of this young chef attacked by the virus of perfectionism. The menu and the sequence of dishes varies in the same way as the oscillations of an increasingly educated and global diner in the capital.

In a direct way, it plays with mycological flavors, on crunchy nori seaweed, and an infusion of herbs that gives country evocations the first hit of solid joys. These have an absolutely striking complicity with the playful harmonies proposed by Ismael Álvarez. This sommelier of Cuenca origin is one of the most hedonistic and fun in Madrid, and in the small and personal Chispa winery, he has placed enough arguments to make drinking there a party. All to the rhythm of what is delivered by a cuisine that has touches as tasty as that of the grilled Tudela bud on basil curry, true vegetable painting. Or the pasta stuffed with the two circles of cappelletti or egg pasta, with an intense anchovy flavor with perhaps some somewhat redundant salmon roe and Japanese left over. The search for the calcareous extends with a double of wines such as the exceptional Fiano by Guido Marsella, or the rare Txakoli with a flower veil Marco Loretxoa.

There is a climactic morsel on the day when whoever writes this symbolically became the napkin on the front of that bistro's enjoyment, as they are beans of precise delicacy; Its fresh nature, the controlled Iberian background, and the tempered carabinero tail, pure butter, achieve a lascivious moment that accompanies our memory. The spark of a good Sumoll from Penedés, Collita Roja, a tribute to the master of the crime novel Hammet, contributes to happiness. Then a new Asturian walk with the mullet that dialogues with a reduction of peppers on a background of traditional Biscayan tripe, to stop the pulse. All this accompanied by Suañé from Rioja, with the usual workmanship. Perhaps the only dish that introduces some confusion in its concept is the veal gizzard with oyster on a beurre blanc, without prejudice to the magnificent point of the gizzard, and which rounds off a great border Tuscan from Le Ragnaie.

All this is a prologue to the delicious saga of the pigeon in three turns: starting with the exceptional tartar of the breast, with the no less interesting tartlet of its foie, crowned by the grated heart; continued by the perfect stitch loin, and a rock and roll anchovy reduction, compared to smoked pear; epilogued by wings and paw to literally lick your fingers with joyous salty chocolate smear. Good poles and cheeses to close.

Free cooking, of intensity, of pure pleasure, without program or forethought. The only story of this restaurant is to investigate the needs that one has when faced with the act of eating. Everything is symbolized by a dessert wine as a metaphorical conclusion, such as the Levantine “recondita armonia” by Gutiérrez de la Vega.” Because beyond the territories and the recipe books, there is the commitment to the sovereignty of whoever sits at the table.


Kitchen: 9

Winery: 9

Room: 9

Happiness: 9